Saturday, September 22, 2012

Human Scale

“The only way to make money in the perfectionist craftsperson industry, it seems, is to stop being a perfectionist craftsperson.” -ADAM DAVIDSONin the New York Times article, “What's a $4000 suit worth?”

The New York times printed an article earlier this month about bespoke suit-making. The article praised the skill of the featured bespoke tailor, but questioned the economics of the business. This tailor has all the business he can handle, but his salary is limited to how quickly he can make each suit. He has no employees and each suit takes about 2 weeks to make. Because there are few ways to speed up his process—-making a suit is skill dependent and each takes about the same amount of time—-his income will remain well below the income that a person buying one of his $4000 suits would probably make. Because he works in the way an artisan would have worked a hundred years ago, he is not making money in the way that much of the clothing industry does today.

These critiques are valid if making money is the main concern, but there are many benefits to the artisan, the customer and society at large that are important but can't be as easily measured as is profit. These are issues that I think about often as I build my business. Although I don't make bespoke suits, the work that I do also “has no economy of scale”--it is human-scale!


First and foremost, the artisan who spends his or her time perfecting skills and making beautiful, functional items out of the resources from this planet, finds fulfillment in the work, in the creating and problem solving she uses her energy and mind for every day. It's also worth mentioning the obvious—-that someone who feels fulfilled functions as a happy person in the world. I know that through my work I have found a happiness that has allowed me to give more to others, and in turn, others have reciprocated in a way that I didn't notice before.

Secondly, the consumer of the product buys something that has been well-made, well designed, that fits well, and that may last longer or bring more joy than another less carefully-made item. The buyer also has a way to get in touch with the maker—to have adjustments/corrections made, or to add to his/her collection.

Also, by making clothing or other artisanal products on a human scale, there is less waste involved in the process. One person can only make a finite amount of products with her time, which limits the amount of products that are made. Bespoke suits are made to order, which reduces waste even further, because a suit is not being made to hang on a rack, but made with the wearer in mind.

Another benefit to society is the continuation of human skills. In clothing, the art of creating a garment that fits around a specific body is an age-old study, one that continues to develop through apprenticeship and experimentation.

Because of the immense value of all of the above, the issue of making more money is minimized in my mind. Yes, I think that quality of life is very important and that if certain tools will speed up the process and allow for more free time while still maintaining the benefits described above, that's value added. But to sacrifice so many of the above benefits just to increase profits seems to me a waste of humanity—a waste of skill, a waste of materials, a waste of time.

I would like to fade out with a song, and there are so many to choose from. Jack Rhodes' “A Satisfied Mind” was sung by many people and here's Porter Wagoner's take:

6 comments:

  1. That video is very appropriate on many levels. Not only does it make your economic argument, but Porter Wagner is wearing a Nudie Cohn suit! And the audience members are probably wearing suits and dresses that were in many cases altered by tailors, if not made at home.

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    1. All of that is inspiration for me. Especially the Nudie suit!

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  2. I think you'll find (I'm working on getting a citation for you, like a good librarian) that support for craft has a history in some of the early political arguments in the United States -- Thomas Jefferson being in support of local guilds and craftspeople and loosely confederated states, in contrast to Alexander Hamilton's ideas about the economic power & efficiency that is possible with a more united entity. Interesting that we live with both philosophies in this country!

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    1. I would love to read more about that history and would appreciate a citation if you have the chance. I agree it is very interesting to think about. While there are certainly pros and cons on either side, I can sympathize with groups like the Luddites from 19th century England who destroyed automatic looms in protest of losing their skilled weaving jobs to machines (and unskilled laborers). (On a side-note, I'm sourcing handwoven fabric for possible use in the future!) They clearly had a strong desire to protect their work and their way of life.

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    2. I heard the idea discussed in a lecture, and the speaker gave these sources:
      -Adams vs. Jefferson: The Tumultuous Election of 1800 by John Ferling
      -A Magnificent Catastrophe by Edward Larson
      -America Afire by Bernard Weisberger
      -The Federalist Papers by Alexander Hamiltion

      I haven't gotten through them all yet!

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